Split Peas and Hambones

pea soup from chicago restaurant, Sprout

Jeff Sills' chilled English pea soup.

I haven’t had a proper ham in the house in a long time. You know the kind: A party ham that begins with so much promise, pineapples draping from its hefty frame, and when it finally spindles its way down to a single, lonely bone, the last bits of ham clinging to it for dear life near the back of the fridge.

My father used to relish this lonely ham bone — it was the central item in his pea soup ritual. That bone would spend hours gurgling in a pot on the stove, surrounded by a mixture of onions, carrots, spices, and then peas until it became a soup that he could be proud of.

So when I opened the Farm Fresh mailbox today to find a recipe for pea soup from Sprout chef Jeff Sills, I was sent right back to my dad’s kitchen and his gurgling pot. Truth is, Sills’s recipe is for a more refined version of my father’s depression-era-inspired concoction. In fact, if dad were still around and I told him we were going to Sprout for chilled English pea soup with lemon curd, he might even find something a bit derisive to say about it.

Maybe I’ll have to hike over to Sprout and give it a try and see how the experience stacks up, especially now, with spring in the air. Or perhaps I’ll try making it — even without a ham bone — Sills was nice enough to share the recipe:

Chilled English Pea Soup

Jeff Sills, Sprout
Serves: four
Prep time: twenty minutes, plus overnight chilling time

Ingredients

Soup
1 pt  pea shoots
1 pt  pea tendrils
½ c  basil leaves
½ c  mint leaves
½ c  grapeseed oil
½ t  citric acid*
1–2  T sugar
1 T  salt
1 t  white pepper
1 c  Half and Half

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and submerge pea shoots, tendrils, basil and mint for ten seconds until bright green. Remove and immediately place into ice water to chill. Drain on a paper towel.
2. Place in blender and blend on high speed, gradually incorporating the grapeseed oil.  Add the citric acid, sugar, salt and pepper and continue blending until smooth; add chilled half and half.  Season to taste with sugar, salt and pepper.

*citric acid can be found at specialty spice stores; you may substitute lemon juice if not available

Lemon Curd (this makes more than you will need; reserve excess for other use)
1/2 c lemon juice
3  eggs
3  egg yolks
½  c sugar
½  lb butter

1.  Combine the first four ingredients in a large bowl and gradually heat over a water bath.  Whisk constantly until mixture becomes very thick (approximately 180 degrees F).
2.  Immediately remove from heat and continue whisking, slowly adding the butter about a tablespoon at a time until the butter is completely incorporated. Chill overnight.

To Serve:

Garnish
Lemon Curd
English Peas
La Quercia Speck
Crème Fraiche
Purple Haze Goat Cheese
Pea Tendrils
Radishes – thinly sliced
Mint leaves

Place 2T lemon curd on the bottom of each bowl, garnishing with 1/8 c peas, two thin slices Speck, 2T each of crème fraiche and goat cheese, 3 pea tendrils, 4 radish slices and 2 mint leaves. Pour soup over and serve immediately.
Have a recipe? Share it with us and we’ll publish it right here on Far Fresh Chicago.

 

Confection Connection

Link

Chocolate from Katherine Anne's

These were just a few of the samples at a recent party at Katherine Anne Confections.

Two locals dabbling in the chocolate arts are making a splash with their confections.

We met Katherine Anne, of Katherine Anne Confections, last year at one or two of the farmers markets. Her truffles are wonderful — fresh ingredients and imaginative flavors combine for a delightful experience. And as much as we admired her wares, we had to admit being inspired by her business savvy, too.

The chocolate game isn’t easy — it’s expensive to make chocolate, and the market is competitive. But Katherine Anne is doing something right and every time we run into her she seems to have something new to offer.

Chocolate Party

We recently attended a chocolate party thrown at her shop way over near Western Avenue. The $20 entrance fee included tastings of more than 20 flavors of chocolate truffles, homemade marshmallows, and delicious caramel, as well as wine and sandwiches. The chocolates were fantastic, but our favorite of the evening was a bacon caramel.

bannana cream truffles

These truffles at Katherine Anne Confections had -- if memory serves -- a banana creme pie flavor.

This party had such charm — what could be happier than a room full of patrons sampling confections and sipping wine? But everyone there seemed to have a certain loyalty to Katherine, ordering up chocolates and swearing fidelity to the idea of always buying their gift chocolates and eating chocolates from her.

Next party is May 23rd, reserve a spot now.

Sweet Margy

After a party like Katherine Anne’s, we felt like picking up something healthy at Whole Foods, but sugar always finds you — and there was Margy pushing hand-made toffee on us. Sweet Margy is also known as the Confection Diva, and her toffee is light, buttery and good. We tried the toffee grahams, toffee covered with chocolate and graham crackers, and the Tofikomin toffee covered in matzo (not kosher, but Margie says she’s working on it.) Both were delicious.

Margy tells us she makes her toffee in small batches without using any preservatives or additives. Good luck to you, Margy!

 

Quiche Me Once, Quiche Me Twice

quiche at green city

Don't feel like making quiche? You can buy a hearty slice at Green City Market!

Last year, we entered the Bucktown Apple Pie Contest. Our entrance was more a personal challenge than a dream for apple pie glory — we wanted to learn how to roll out a proper pie crust and we thought the contest would force us to learn. We tried a variety of recipes, cheddar crusts and Parmesan crusts sent us begging for slices of artisan cheese from Pastoral in Lakeview, then we turned to vinegar and sour cream methods, settling, finally on a sour cream crust with just a little of the cheese.

Ten pounds later, there we were in Bucktown with a respectable crust, an incredible apple pie filling, and the good feeling of having picked up a new skill.

These days we use our Bucktown talents for healthier dishes, particularly when we find pullet eggs at Green City Market — eggs from a young hen. After all, it’s National Egg month, and there’s nothing quite like a quiche in spring. For this quiche, we added some new spinach and Gruyere to indulge in textures and flavors. Give it a try!

Pullet Egg Quiche

2 pie crusts, blind baked
2 Tbs butter
2 shallots, minced
4 bunches (about four cups) spinach
salt and pepper to taste

2 cups Gruyere cheese, grated
2 cups half and half
9 Pullet eggs
Pinch nutmeg

In a large pan, melt butter. Saute shallots in butter until fragrant, then add spinach an cook down. Distribute mixture between both the pie crusts.

In a large bowl, whip eggs and cream until light. Fold in the gruyere, and pour mixture into the pie shells.

Cook quiches at 350 for about 30 – 35 minutes.

Serve with Potato and Leek Soup.

Our Lost Morels

Morels and pasta

Morel mushrooms and tips -- beef and asparagus -- add flavor and texture to this dish.

Fifty dollars a pound. That’s how much morels were at the market last week at Green City Market, and we gladly paid for four ounces, dreaming of their texture and flavor on the way home.

The morels went missing for a little while — the bag they were in slipped behind a bin in the kitchen, giving us a scare – so when we found them again, we gratefully got to work slicing them up and mixing them in with some grass-fed beef tips from Heartland Meats, asparagus, and fresh pasta.

Morels and Beef Tips with Asparagus over Fettuccine

2 small shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
4 ounces morels, sliced thin
1/2 pound asparagus tips
1/2 pound beef tips
1/2 cup veal stock

1/2 pound egg fettuccine

Saute garlic and onions until fragrant and toss in morels. Cook until fragrant.Add the asparagus and cook for one minute, then add the beef tips. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add the veal stock and simmer until the liquid is almost cooked down.

Serve with Quick Kale Salad

The Morel of the Story

Morel mushrooms image

Morel mushrooms have a honeycomb-like feature that helps them soak up a great sauce. Image courtesy of Indiana Dept. of Agriculture.

Morel hunters are out this week, peering downward at tree trunks with hopeful, trained eyes, trying to find that delicious fungi. Morel mushrooms are so delicious when you can find them fresh from the forest, cut them up, and cook them in some fat. In fact, the more fat you can find for those morels to soak up, the better.

Get Some Morels at Green City Market

Green City Market farmers are touting morels for this weekend — the last weekend for Green City’s indoor market — but get there early. Morel hunters in the city aren’t as gentle as their countryside counterparts, and they’ll snatch up those morels as soon as they’re set out!

Cooking Morels

To prepare those morels, you can do something as simple as fry them — gently — in some rich butter and season with fresh sea salt and cracked pepper. Some people fry them in batter, but I think that just takes away from the morel’s character. Keep it simple, and let those honeycomb-like morels soak up some simple butter or a great red wine reduction.

In fact, if you’re lucky enough to find some morels at the market this weekend, buy a nicely marbled steak and sear it in a pan in both sides, then place the steak in the oven at a low temp and cook until it reaches a legitimate (but just barely) medium rare. Also buy a really lovely bottle of burgundy and deliver a cup of it into the pan juices and make a nice quick reduction, finishing it off with some salt, pepper, and some really fatty Irish butter. In a separate pan, toss your morels with some more of that butter, salt, and pepper — OK, and onions if you really want them — and pour the morels and sauce over your steaks. Serve with some crusty bread for slopping up the sauce.

Delicious!

 

Sono – Wood Fired Pizza at North and Clybourn

Sono Wood Fired Pizza image courtesey: Sono Wood Fired Pizza

Sono Wood-Fired Pizza features local ingredients baked in a hot oven. Photo courtesy: Sono Wood-Fired Pizza.

“I use local ingredients whenever I can,” cooed chef John McLean, owner of Chicago’s Sono Wood Fired. He had to repeat that for us, as the 14 in our party were surrounded by a gaggle of Tuesday night regulars in for the two-for-one pizza deal. Families with little kids wedged in next to hipsters and our group of noisy women for one of best deals in town.

Neighborhood Eatery

From the friendly first pour of wine – a California red zin that wasn’t too bad – to the patient waitress whose passion for the menu showed through in her descriptions, we had a blast at this place.

We also had to admire the decor. Hip wood floors support an antique wine rack against a back wall, and colorful tiles adorn the wood-fired pizza oven. This place is casual and cute.

Gourmet Pizza at Pizzeria Prices

We took advantage of the amazing pizza deal, eating the light-sounding spinach and goat cheese pizza and working our way through the menu of red and white pizzas to the za’s topped with soppresata and other thinly-sliced meats, vowing to come back for a flight of bruscetta the next time.

A few smart ladies in our party treated themselves with the generous flights of wine offered on the menu and on the specials board.

Something Sweet

When a few from our party left, we stayed for some after-dinner drinks and a bit of panna cotta and chocolate cake. The crowd died down a bit and we had a chance to dig into the sweets without having to share too much!

We highly recommend this spot and hope to go back to see lots of local specials on the menu this summer!

Sono Wood-Fired Pizza

Sono Wood Fired
1582 N. Clybourn Ave.
Chicago, IL 60642
312-255-1122
entrees: $10 – $17

 

Fresh Pasta with Pea Shoots and Chicken

pasta with pea shoots and chicken thights

Pasta with pea shoots and chicken thighs -- treats from Green City Market.

Delicate pasta, chicken thighs and new spring pea shoots make up this entree. We were tempted by the pea shoots at Green City Market and then seduced by the idea of fresh pasta. In fact, this was our second trip to Pasta Puttana — we thought we’d try them again after having so much success with their pizza dough.

Thank goodness that the Chicago’s farm markets are starting to see some early spring veggies. We also grabbed some asparagus — purple and green — and included a bit in this dish.

Served with toasted French bread with roasted garlic butter, this made a for a tasty Sunday dinner.

It also made us re-think our pending commitment to becoming gluten-free. Maybe being really low gluten can work for now, we mused, crunching on garlic toast.

Try it for yourself and let us know what you think.

Pasta with Pea Shoots and Chicken Thighs

Pea pod shoots, uncooked.

Pea pod shoots fresh from the farm market.

1/2-pound of fresh egg fettuccine
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 pound boneless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into small pieces
1/2 cup chicken stock
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 shallot
1 bunch purple asparagus
1 bunch pea shoots
1 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Sauté garlic, shallot and asparagus over medium heat for one minute. Add chicken thighs and cook for 3 – 5 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through. Season with salt, pepper and thyme. Add chicken stock. Add pea sprouts, cover and stir periodically for 3 – 5 minutes or until cooked through. Toss with fresh pasta and season with salt and pepper.

 

Spring Pizza

Spring Pizza: Semolina pizza dough, shiitake and crimini mushrooms, and lots of sausage.

Trying to get asparagus at Green City Market last Saturday was impossible — even at the early hour of 8:30 a.m. So we decided against the Easter Sunday brunch menu entirely, instead opting for — a pizza.

Fresh semolina pizza dough from Pasta Puttana was what inspired us — although there was some wood-fired pizza shells that looked pretty good, too. “He lets the dough rise overnight,” said the salesperson, which sounded Easter-y enough to me. We grabbed some leeks, and a few other fresh ingredients, and hit the road for our tennis lesson.

Spring Pizza

2 tbsp. olive oil
2 leeks, sliced thin, white parts only
3 bulbs garlic, minced
3/4 cup each shiitake and crimini mushrooms, sliced thin
3/4 pound ground Italian sausage
1 cup Gruyere cheese, grated
salt and pepper to taste

Sauté leeks in olive oil for about four minutes, or until translucent and season with salt and pepper. Add garlic. Remove from pan and set aside. Cook sausage in the same pan until just done.

Form dough into crust and cover with and even mixture of leeks, garlic, mushrooms and sausage, season with a bit more salt and pepper, then cover with cheese. Cook in a hot oven – we preheated our oven to 500 degrees with the pizza stone in it – for about 10 – 12 minutes until crust is brown.

Serve with a farm market fresh salad of mixed greens and in-season vegetables, or try our Quick Kale Salad.

 

Eating Well in Chicago

Farm Fresh Chicago is your destination for information about fresh food in Chicago. Learn about the farm markets in your neighborhood, or read about the restaurants in town that work hard to serve locally-sourced food. Take a day trip to a Chicago area winery, or find a rural farm not far from the loop and when you get home, let us know what you cooked — share your recipes!